How to

Boyer module bracket for mounting on BSA twins that use the welded to the frame battery bracket.
Will also work on many Triumph's and Norton's anywhere that velcro and tie wrap methed of mounting is used and where two hoes can be tapped.
This is a stainless bracket made for easy mounting underneath the battery strap bracket found on BSA’s from 1963 – 1968.  You have to drill and tap the holes (use 8-32 screws), apply the Velcro and tie-wraps, and wire up the Boyer module.  

This bracket saves you a lot of work designing and building a good location for the Boyer module.  It provides a location safe from the weather, easily accessible, and easy to wire.  Well tested on a number of my bikes, it allows room for the battery box pin to come through the rubber grommet cup in the bracket on the frame.  The stock side cover arrangement clears this mounting location.  The wires go back towards the oil tank and can easily reach the required locations for the Boyer box.

These brackets can be used on other British bikes.  We have used them on Triumphs and Nortons.  You would need to e-mail me for instructions to use these on other bike applications.  

Priced at $45.00 delivered in the U.S. Lower 48. International, Alaska and Hawaii customers will be invoiced for shipping separately after you have purchased the product.

This is a time saver for the do-it-yourselfer.

Kit contains two new leads three inches long. They have all the hardware ready to go for installing on the bike. This kit keeps you from running to a number of hardware and auto parts stores and figuring sizes and shapes it's just a time saver. The new leads are made from the braided part of the coaxial cable used for TV’s. . The leads are shrunk wrapped but the wrap is not heated yet. On one end there is an eyelet connector. Attached to the eyelet end, is one small screw and two nuts. The other end has a female bullet connector that matches the male connectors that came with the Boyer ignition.

First remove the point cover remember when replacing there is a top and bottom to the cover. Now you need to mark two things before going any further. I like a felt tip sharpie for this job. You need a line linking the Boyer backing plate to the aluminum casting and a small dot by the wire with the yellow trace marking. The first mark allows you to re-assemble the Boyer plate so that you don't have to re-time the bike. The dot just makes it easy to remember to put the yellow ringed new wire were the old yellow wire was.

Read more: Boyer Wire Repair Kit

Getting the steel plates flat is the key to the clutch working. Now I have to do this more often than you so I made a purpose built tool. Lapping is done in a figure "8" motion and that is reversed in direction each stroke it takes dome muscle memory and practice of witch you will get a lot. It's all done by hand because power corrupts getting them truly flat. I made this to use on a drill press but by hand is best:

Read more: Clutch plate service

Get an old plug made for the bike your dealing with (the deader the better.) Put it in a vice and brake off the ceramic top flush with the metal. Spin it around and grind and or cut off the ground strap. Using a 1/32 cut off wheel remove the crimp that hold the remaining ceramic it's not too thick easy does it, this allows you to punch the rest right out from the electrode end.Chuck up what's left in a lathe and using the tap drill for a 3/8-16, drill right through the center.

Before removing it, start the tap so it’s straight. Using a 3/8-16 hex bolt about two and 3/4 inches long so that 1 1/2 sticks out were the ground was on the plug remains. Finish taping the plug than put the bolt in with some red “Locktite”, screw the long bolt into the plug all the way.  Now turn down the shank to .187=3/16 diameter for the whole 1 1/2 length. You don’t want to bend a valve doing your degree study so be mindful of the valves movement. Now using a file in the lathe put a bull nose on the end of the bolt.Make it 1 1/4 long at this point as a finish length.

. I then use a drill about .100 to make an air excape hole drill into the bolt head side then cross drill very near the spark plugs thread end.

Read more: Dead Stop Tool

For Norton Roadholders

The results of this modification are that you'll get 1 ½” more available travel to your forks as well as improved bottom out / top out dampening and better compliance to the road.

In this kit you receive: two (2) new extended alloy dampener rods; two (2) Two and one half inch springs with four (4) hardened washers to add to the spring pack; and two (2) dampener valve dowel pins. Depending on the condition of your forks, additional parts to consider while you have things dismantled would be, new forks seals (we prefer the leak proof brand), new fork gaiters (the long accordion type provide the best protection), new fork tubes (if there's any sign of chrome wear, the tubes will soon need to be replaced so now is a good time), and the alloy dampener tube caps if they may have been worn out by excessively pitted dampener rods.Usually, the lower fork tube bushings are totally serviceable and occasionally, the upper bronze ones may be loose enough to want replacements. This is a good time to check it all out.

Read more: Fauth Fork Modification Kit

1966-1969 Dampener tube front ends

BSA dampener tube type front ends seen from 1966-1969 can be tuned up to Dampen much better.

Yes, I remake the valve that mounts on the end of the rod to a new diameter of .413 O. D. I copy the flutes on that Valve. And yes I make a new top bushing for the tube.

The new I.D. of that is .322 the rod is .312 nominal and should not be worn down too far. I use Amco 18 as a material. Because the tube will be hour glass shaped you need to broach it out. You need to make a tool tip for the end of a large slide hammer that is .413 in diameter and force it in and out of the tube. Sometimes as many as three times to get the fit required. Use the mounting bolt to hold on to in the vice.

Read more: Fauth Front end kits for BSA's

A lot of people who run the oil in frame bikes have been fitting new modern low profile tires, like the Avon Roadrunners.  By design, this fender had an unusually large air gap pre-engineered by the factory.  

When fitted with a low profile tire, although the handling is nice, the sight of the set up is awkward.  I have designed and built a fender drop bracket that can lower your fender to get the gap looking correct.  

This change is completely reversible by removing the new bracket and remounting the fender with the stock brackets.  The stock brackets are still used with their rubber bushings, so you still have an ISO mounted fender.  Please see the pictures attached for a before and after display.  The price is $30.00, shipped in the U.S.  They can be polished for an additional charge.  These are fresh off the water jet not polished at this price.

Not included in the kit but needs consideration. These brackets have an off set bent into them that presents a surface flush with the original mounting surface but lower. You reuse the stock bolts to mount the bracket and you will need four new screws, nuts and lock washers to reuse the stock pair of pinch brackets in the new lower holes. The stock bolts are long and fine thread. The extra screws I use are 5/8 long 1/4-20 S.S. #2 Phillips head pan screws.  I use an Army/Navy flat washer on the nut side (the outside) and the nut I use is plain steel staked nut. The nuts look normal - Cad plated.  They have a little rectangular punch mark on two sides opposite. They are a deformed nut by design, so using S.S. nuts would guarantee that the fastener would gall and be un-removable. My cost for each set up is about a 1.50 each X four. I like them as they come with the nuts facing out because of the way it blends in with the rest of the bike. But you could polish the brackets and than use S.S. button head socket screws facing out or just copy the stock fender bolts.

The rotor that comes with some of the most popular electronic ignition kits is made from steel, and has magnets screwed and glued to the steel.  Some of these have been on bikes for 20 years or more.  As the heat of the motor soaks into the rotor, and the steel and magnets interact over time, the magnets become weakened. Some of these magnets have come off at high RPM.

I have made a new design for this rotor.  The body is made from aluminum, and the magnets used are quarter by quarter neodymium.  These magnets are much stronger than the original magnets.  The aluminum body cools much faster than steel.  These are precision machined on a 5 axis C & C machine.  

When you reinstall this rotor into your machine, you must recheck the timing with a strobe.  It is normal to need to retard the timing by 5 – 10 degrees.  These new rotors seem to breathe new life into your old electronic ignition.  Priced at $55.00 in the lower 48. International, Alaska and Hawaii customers will be invoiced for shipping separately after you have purchased the product.

What ever you do don't get it hot till you get it perfect. The belt will take a set and never run true. You need to build a service tool. The slop in the bearing in the clutch hosing is going to keep you from ever getting it right. You may not find it easy but if you follow this you will get it right.

You need an old clutch housing we like the ones that people toss out the old atlas ones with the rivets in the back there free after all. But any old worn one will do. It will always be a tool from now on.

Push out the old bearing after removing the cir-clip. You will make a solid piece of steel to replace the bearing. Press fit it in there no more need of a cir-clip.

Read more: Service tool use for belt drive

This tool is made from an old spark plug core.  I have drilled and tapped the inside of the core and added a 3/8 pin.  The end of the pin is radiused where it contacts the piston. The tool has an air escape hole. The tool is used in conjunction with a degree wheel to locate TDC with total accuracy.  The use of the tool is described in my “how-to” section of my web site.  Tool is $20.00, with shipping and handling in the lower 48.  International, Alaska and Hawaii customers will be invoiced for shipping separately after you have purchased the product.

Many Norton owners have started using Steve Kelly's Tri-Spark ignition system. They do seem to run our bikes well. With the brain box right in the points chamber, engine heat, although allowed for in the design, could be reduced to some degree with the use of a heat insulating gasket which would keep the points cover cooler than normal. I have made such a gasket and will sell it for 5.00 plus shipping for use with his systems. It is made of a product used just for this purpose - 1/32” thick and black in color. These gaskets are Laser cut because of the toughness and hardness of the material.

 

These are made for BSA bikes that use fiberglass side covers (1965 – 1970).  

These covers are held on by Dzus fasteners.  Because the bike’s vibration shakes the fasteners against paintwork, it causes them to dig in damaging the paintwork.  

Much of this damage can be prevented by the use of a simple thin Delron washer.  I make these by hand for all my bikes, and can provide a set of four for your bike for $18.00 delivered in the lower 48. International, Alaska and Hawaii customers will be invoiced for shipping separately after you have purchased the product.

These are the very thin and small weather proof type washer, used under the bezel of the instrument light to seal the hole from rainwater entering the headlight.  

I make these by hand, because I’ve never liked the fit of the ones obtained from my dealers.  Sold in sets of three, for $5.00 per set in the lower 48. International, Alaska and Hawaii customers will be invoiced for shipping separately after you have purchased the product.