Fauth Fork Modification Kit

For Norton Roadholders

The results of this modification are that you'll get 1 ½” more available travel to your forks as well as improved bottom out / top out dampening and better compliance to the road.

In this kit you receive: two (2) new extended alloy dampener rods; two (2) Two and one half inch springs with four (4) hardened washers to add to the spring pack; and two (2) dampener valve dowel pins. Depending on the condition of your forks, additional parts to consider while you have things dismantled would be, new forks seals (we prefer the leak proof brand), new fork gaiters (the long accordion type provide the best protection), new fork tubes (if there's any sign of chrome wear, the tubes will soon need to be replaced so now is a good time), and the alloy dampener tube caps if they may have been worn out by excessively pitted dampener rods.Usually, the lower fork tube bushings are totally serviceable and occasionally, the upper bronze ones may be loose enough to want replacements. This is a good time to check it all out.

*NOTE: Some aftermarket fork tubes have substandard chrome and their tolerances are either too loose or very tight (not consistent). Genuine Norton parts are the only way to go and most cost effective.

The work you'll have to perform to complete this project is to relocate the dampener holes. You have three options: 1) buy new alloy dampener tubes with the holes already relocated. 2) Tap out the existing holes and install 1/16th “pipe plugs (see tools and references below). 3) Weld up the old holes and grind smooth. The new ¼” holes will be located just above the point where the taper meets the straight part of the dampener tube (see photo reference).

Begin by referencing a shop manual and parts diagram. Removal of the forks will make certain functions much easier but this operation can be performed with the forks in the triple trees. Disassemble the forks per instructions and the diagrams. No special tools are needed accept perhaps a pipe wrench to engage the fork seal retainer nuts.*NOTE: Be careful to retain the small dowel pins that go under the dampener valve. They are easy to lose. New ones are however provided in the kit. Reassemble the forks with the new dampener rods, 2 1/2 springs and any new parts you determine are needed. Reference the notes on preload set up below. Install the forks and add 150cc (5 oz.) of fork oil (5wt. Is a good start for most riders) per each fork leg. *NOTE: Some people use ATF which has been effective. However, it should be noted that ATF does not have the lubricating qualities of oil.

Once installed, your bike will now stand a bit taller in a parked situation. The extra height will soon be absorbed with your weight so the bike rides at a stock level. There are no ill affects to the steering geometry once the bike is running down the road. You may notice the Triumph jiggle in the front wheel at stop lights.

Please reference the notes and parts sources below. Certainly, you can inquire with me at: This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it should you have any questions.

I have found some needed things in the McMaster-Carr Catolog on line.

  • 1/16 NPT flush mount pipe plugs four needed .020 each # 4534K39
  • 1/16 NPT tap one needed 12.21 each# 2525A171

See them and order them at www.mcmaster.com

The alloy dampener tubes are good but need some checking. We have found some of the holes that mount them to have broken through into the fluid chamber this will require the use of Loctite hydo seal on the threads at assembly.

Also check the fluid flow holes to see if there the same size they need to be a pair and we have found some to be slightly different. Use drills to check and correct with the larger size drill. Also the bolts need to be 8mm fine thread and about ¼ longer than the stock ones you are threading into alum.

The bronze dampener tube caps made and carried by Decent cycles found in the on line store on this site are high on the recommended list of things to do while your doing this project. Made from AMCO15 for long wear in a bad spot if oil is not changed a lot. Just 30.00 a pair with shipping. 

The new system works best with thin oil or ATF You can play with adding slightly more fluid no more than 200cc's. A free and easy motion is what you are looking for. You need the bike to settle 1 ½ inches minimum with your weight.

Always start with the lightest preload that's ¾ of thread into the fork caps Sometimes 5/8 is all that is possible. Reuse the jam nuts they are thinner than normal nuts. Don't use the old thick washer stock on Commando spring setups. Just use a pair of hardened washers on each side of the new springs.

So far no one has had to dial in more spring tension but there is extra thread for this purpose provided. Just run more thread up into the fork caps and re-jam the nut. Go slow on this adjustment a little goes a long way.

The 2 ½ springs provide the one inch more travel needed for the stock springs to handle the extra travel without coil binding. I run stock springs in one bike and light weight

Progressives in another. Both work well but the stock springs transmit more road textures. You can feel the Progressives getting progressive much more with this kit installed and it's a good thing.

By popular demand

The kit can be had in a one inch shorter form that still has the six inches of travel.

one inch shorter fork legs are needed.

Many ways to this end. They can be machined or ordered new. The new kit uses different springs and requires the use of progessive springs as well. So if the taller stance was holding you back your out of excuses now.

Of course it's more money because of the changes.

Photo 1 is the ¾ stick out that gets run up into the fork cap bolts.

Photo 1 is the ¾ stick out that gets run up into the fork cap bolts.

Photo 2 shows the new location for ¼ hole on top and the old on the bottom.

Photo 2 shows the new location for ¼ hole on top and the old on the bottom.

forkmod3

Photo 3 shows the file groves added to the high hat bushings for running Leak Proof seals.