Boyer Wire Repair Kit

boyerrepairkitKit contains two new leads three inches long. They have all the hardware ready to go for installing on the bike. This kit keeps you from running to a number of hardware and auto parts stores and figuring sizes and shapes it's just a time saver. The new leads are made from the braided part of the coaxial cable used for TV’s. . The leads are shrunk wrapped but the wrap is not heated yet. On one end there is an eyelet connector. Attached to the eyelet end, is one small screw and two nuts. The other end has a female bullet connector that matches the male connectors that came with the Boyer ignition.

First remove the point cover remember when replacing there is a top and bottom to the cover. Now you need to mark two things before going any further. I like a felt tip sharpie for this job. You need a line linking the Boyer backing plate to the aluminum casting and a small dot by the wire with the yellow trace marking. The first mark allows you to re-assemble the Boyer plate so that you don't have to re-time the bike. The dot just makes it easy to remember to put the yellow ringed new wire were the old yellow wire was.

Now you can pull apart the old bullet connectors two pair of pliers are good for this. Be sure to keep from deforming the male side going back to the black box as you reuse these connectors. With the plate unwired you now can loosen off the pillar bolts and get the backing plate up on the work bench.

Now you have to de-solder the old short leads from the backing plate. Be fore getting out the torch or the soldering iron there may be one or two things to remove first. One is the factory zip tie if still there and two is the gob of epoxy holding these wires to the plate. Remove the epoxy gently so as not to damage the plate I use my finger nails but a small screw driver will do.

Now I use a butane torch turned down low and let it stand on the bench running to do the de-soldering. Grab the plate with your hand and the wire to be removed with a pair of pliers aiming the flame at the solder dot on the back of the plate a steady pull at the wire and out comes the old lead. Repeat for the other side careful don't start your plate on fire. Now you need a clean cotton cloth reheat the holes a bit and wipe away the excess solder around the holes repeat till cleaned up and bolts fit through. You can use a #33 drill bit to ream them if you're having trouble getting the fit.

Now you're ready you install the bolts into the back of the plate. The screw goes in from the back of the plate so that the threaded part is what you see sticking out when it's on the bike. Run down one of the nuts on each of the bolts hand tight to hold the head up tight to the back of the plate. Now with a small bit of flux and heat solder the screw head to the back of the plate. Only a dot of solder is needed you don't want it bleeding out onto the threads. Once it's all cooled down a drop of blue loctite # 242 goes on the nut and it's snuggled up with tools.

Put the eyelet end of the new lead on top of the locktited nut and add the second nut with another drop of locktite on top of the eyelet. Now put the plate back in the bike on the mark you made for timing and snug up the pillar bolts both of the new leads go from bottom to top in a curve that gets the female bullet end pointing back down towards were they are attached at the bottom of the plate. Re insert the male bullet connectors into the females. You're almost done.

I use a thin piece of foam like that found in helmets and I cut it and use silicone to fix it to the inside of the point cover. This mod allows the bullet connectors to have something to rest against while the bike engine is shaking. Put on the cover and it's done. The heat of the motor will cure the shrink wrap in their proper places as you go down the road.