Dead Stop Tool

Get an old plug made for the bike your dealing with (the deader the better.) Put it in a vice and brake off the ceramic top flush with the metal. Spin it around and grind and or cut off the ground strap. Using a 1/32 cut off wheel remove the crimp that hold the remaining ceramic it's not too thick easy does it, this allows you to punch the rest right out from the electrode end.Chuck up what's left in a lathe and using the tap drill for a 3/8-16, drill right through the center.

Before removing it, start the tap so it’s straight. Using a 3/8-16 hex bolt about two and 3/4 inches long so that 1 1/2 sticks out were the ground was on the plug remains. Finish taping the plug than put the bolt in with some red “Locktite”, screw the long bolt into the plug all the way.  Now turn down the shank to .187=3/16 diameter for the whole 1 1/2 length. You don’t want to bend a valve doing your degree study so be mindful of the valves movement. Now using a file in the lathe put a bull nose on the end of the bolt.Make it 1 1/4 long at this point as a finish length.

. I then use a drill about .100 to make an air excape hole drill into the bolt head side then cross drill very near the spark plugs thread end.

Now the tools done how do you use it? Find the compression stroke of the timing side cylinder and back off the motor, plugs out of course using the rear wheel in fourth gear. Just get the piston low enough to put in the dead stop tool. Tighten it hard as you can by hand. Next turn over the motor till the piston is resting on the dead stop tool (very gentle). Install the degree wheel on the cam. Build your pointer nice and stiff. Set it to 30 degrees BTDC just snug it you will adjust this later. Now turn the motor backwards till you feel it rest on the piston again. Read the degree wheel in a perfect world it would be 30 degrees ATDC it most likely won't be. Now do the math lets say it came around to 25 instead of thirty you would loosen the wheel move it 2 1/2 degrees and than repeat. So when you are done after repeating this again checking each time against the dead stop in each direction the degrees are even like 28BTDc and 28ATDC or what ever comes out even.

Once it's set tighten down the wheel itself. A good top dead center tool would stop the piston at about 30 degrees each side of top dead center. Remove the tool now set the degree wheel to 31 degrees BTDC check to see how far your gage is off. Scribe that corrected # inside the points cover for future reference. Mine ( Commando) says 34 degrees inside. That would be 31 if the gage were right in the first place or the rotor hasn’t rotated on its core.